Tasting Notes - Amherst 'Dunn's Paddock' Shiraz 2000

Very promising start with a very unique nose of church pews (!) and light smokey oak. This settled over time and reverted to more typical red berries. Flavours were all over the shop; relatively simple red berries and hints of acid early but the palate did dry out a touch to leave old woody notes. I'll reassess on night two as it's clear this wine is still developing in the glass (Day 2: berries filled out more in the palate but essentially the same). The winery would not be disappointed with the performance of this wine at 7 - 8 years of age.

New Releases - February Pt. 4

Albarino
Castro Martin 2006 $29 (Rias Baixas, Spain)

Barbera
Boggy Creek Vineyards 2005 $20 (King Valley)

Cabernet & Blends
Galli Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 $15 (Sunbury)
Taylor Ferguson Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 $13 (Coonawarra)
Wantirna Estate 'Amelia' Cabernet Merlot 2005 $59 (Yarra Valley)
Woodlands 'Margaret' Cabernet Merlot 2006 $43 (Margaret River)
Woodlands 'Rachel' Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 $92 (Maragret River)

Durif
Warrabilla 'Reserve' 2004 $27 (Rutherglen)

Grenache
Cooper Burns 2006 $22 (Barossa Valley)

Pinot Gris
Due Monde 2006 $25 (Adelaide Hills)

Pinot Noir
Astrolab Pinot Noir 2006 $31 (Marlborough)
Baillieu Vineyard Pinot Noir 2006 $16 (Mornington Peninsula)
Caledonia Australis 'Estate' 2005 $25 (Gippsland)
Lethbridge 2006 $30 (Geelong)
Silverwood "Seasons Pinot Noir" 2006 $14 (Mornington Peninsula)
Wedgetail Estate Single Vineyard 2005 $42 (Yarra Valley)
Wild River 2002 $12 (Yarra Valley)

Riesling
Donnhoff Spatlese 'Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg' $62 (Naha, Germany)
Gunderloch 'Estate Dry' 2006 $28 (Rheinhessen, Germany)

Rose
Brown Magpie 2006 $15 (Geelong)
Eastern Peake Pinot Rose 2004 $20 (Ballarat)

Sangiovese
Boggy Creek Vineyards 2006 $20 (King Valley)

Sauvignon Blanc & Blends
Gembrook Hill 2006 $29 (Yarra Valley)
Penna Lane Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2007 $19 (Clare Valley)
Ten Minutes by Tractor "10X Barrel Fermented" $27 (Mornington Peninsula)

Shiraz
Galli Estate 2006 $18 (Sunbury)
Heathcote II 'HD' Shiraz 2005 $61 (Heathcote)
Jones 'LJ Shiraz' 2003 $51 (Rutherglen)
Mount Majura 2006 $21 (Canberra)

Sparkling Red
Nillahcootie Estate Sparkling Shiraz 2004 $21 (Central Victorian Highlands)

Tasting Notes - Yarra Valley Showcase - Cabernet

Bracket Overview
Tasted over two brackets and a random mix of vintages. Mostly these wines were austere, firmly built, old fashioned perhaps, and will cellar. Many lacked immediate appeal which may turn off the uninitiated. Straight cab sav unless noted.

Yarra Burn 2005 (Recommended)
Sourced from the valley floor. Medium blood red in colour. Zingy, nervy nose shows herbs and mint; very lively. Fresh palate, obvious ripe red berries, firming aniseed edge. Relatively soft structure for YV cab.

Roundstone Cabernet Merlot 2005
Light blood red with some noticeable lightening at the rim. Sweet berries on the nose early, marrying nicely with green pepper and spice. Faint wood and aniseed as well. Palate is seriously dry in structure with a low impact of red berries and a spicy finish.

Long Gully Irma 2004
Sourced from 24yr old vines. Euro nose; pongy barnyard (not too much), some spice and old wood. Accessible red fruits to taste, some acid, some heat and a lick of licorice. Slightly hard finish takes away from what is a pretty good wine.

Punt Road 2004
Sourced from 20yr old vines, 25% new oak, 15 months in oak, 4% merlot. Ripe blackberry on the nose; faintly pongy with good penetration. Thick cassis fruits to taste, some acid burn, relatively soft and approachable. Very good length.

Coldstream Hills Reserve 2004
19yr old vines, 41% new oak, 15 months in oak. Nose shows a lick of soft lifted confectionary aromas, red berry fruits, a hint of plum, almost shiraz-like to my thinking. Biggish palate weight and almost falls into the over-ripe bracket? Long finish with spicy tannin.

Wantirna Estate Amelia Cabernet Merlot 2004 (Recommended)
44yr old vines, small amounts of cab franc and petit verdit, 25% new oak. Wonderful nose; great combination of sweet cassis / blackberry fruits (and herbal fruits). Aromas hit you hard early. Thick sweet fruits although still very classical (to my tastes) but the ripe blackberry might be over the top for the purist.

Oakridge '864' Cabernet Merlot 2004 (Recommended)
Near identical in appearance to the Roundstone ex. the lightness at the rim. Low key aromas; old fashion red berries, very settled. More lively in the palate with zinging acid and firming tannins. Very apparent 'hole' in the mid palate. Spicy tannic finish.

Millers 2004
Appearance as per the Oakridge. Sweeter nose although fruits are still on the subdued side. Some lift from the oak. Palate is all about structure; tight, no fruit poking out at all, firm tannins on the finish. Very young.

Giant Steps Harry's Monster 2003
30% cab sav, 30% merlot, 10% cab franc, 30% petit verdot. Only 300 cases made. Colour as per the Millers and Oakridge. Cold fruits drive the flavours and aromas with a nice green fruit tinge, cut grass, really quite attractive. Firm and unyielding to taste with no accessible fruits. Drying finish. Again very young.

De Bortoli 1995 (Recommended)
The aged ring-in. Impressive stuff and looks absolutely fantastic for a 12 year old. Perhaps the most obvious cabernet of the flight; spicy herbs and green leaf. Excellent penetration. Finishes 'cold' and long, and believe it or not, needs time.

Tasting Notes - Yarra Valley Showcase - 2006 Chardonnay

Bracket View
Very traditional with classic structure, unyielding, should be long-lived.

Punt Road 2006 (Recommended)
Sourced from valley floor fruit, no malo, picked at 11.7 baume, 30% new oak. Lightish gold in colour; in line with the previous bracket. Ripe nose; 'bogan' appeal perhaps but I like it. Some spice and minerals, and oak, keeps the mouthfeel likely. Woody and citrus fruits on the finish.

Giant Steps 2006
1yr old oak, no malo, picked at 13 baume. Very similar in appearance to the Punt Road. Brightly fruited nose with ripe peach and tropical fruits; quite zingy and perhaps some heat. Fruits carry throughout the palate; slightly liqueured, creamy, has strength and length. Very much a 'big' structured wine.

George Millar 2006 (Recommended)
Sourced from a single 19yr old block in Dixon's Creek. Striking oak and burnt match on the nose; very obvious with lots of appeal. Some toasty caramelised oak as well. Good presence; slightly dumb but good fun. Fruits tighten considerably upon tasting; gets very linear with slightly sour citrus fruits. No dumb fruits here, and structure is terrific.

Balgownie 2006
Whole bunch-pressed, mostly upper valley fruit, no malo. Colour is slightly dark gold, some development? Ripe citrus fruits on the nose together with the faintest hint of toasty oak. Simple but effective. Strong presence in the mouth with some prickly acid (not a show stopper), smooth and somewhat creamy; pleasant to drink. Lemon fruits on the finish.

PHI 2006
Upper Yarra fruit, 22yrs old, red soils. Bright and ripe nose, although clearly underpinned with a marzipan / funky note. Very balanced aromas. Tight and elegant palate with tight citrus fruits, would never have picked given the nose. Finishes shy, or maybe even dilutive to my tastes. Could be very young.

Oakridge 2006 (Recommended)
This winery showed very well over the 2 days and this chardonnay kicked things off nicely. Lively, zingy nose; ripe citrus and old oak, slightly old fashioned but very effective. Palate is also tight and linear on this wine (ahla the PHI), but is also very dry, tart, and serious. Can be cellared with confidence.

New Releases - February Pt.3

Cabernet & Blends
Mike Press Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 $13 (Adelaide Hills)
Murrindindi 'Family Reserve' Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 $22 (Central Victorian Highlands)

Chardonnay

Chard Farm 'Closeburn' 2006 $26 (Central Otago)

Chard Farm 'Judge Jury' 2004 $47 (Central Otago)

Murrindindi 'Family Reserve' 2005 $22 (Central Victorian Highlands)

Durif

Stanton & Killeen 2004 $37 (Rutherglen)

Pinot Gris / Grigio

Chard Farm Pinot Gris 2006 $30 (Central Otago)

Pinot Noir

Chard Farm 'River Run' 2006 $38 (Central Otago)

Chard Farm 'Finla Mor' 2006 $46 (Central Otago)

Chard Farm 'The Viper' 2006 $52 (Central Otago)

Chard Farm 'The Tiger' 2006 $52 (Central Otago)

Rabbit Ranch 2006 $31 (Central Otago)

Riesling

Mount Horrocks 2007 $27 (Clare Valley)

Sauvignon Blanc
Chard Farm 2006 $24 (Central Otago)
Rabbit Ranch 2006 $22 (Central Otago)

Shiraz
Stanton & Killeen 'Jack's Block' 2005 $44 (Rutherglen)

Sparkling Wines
Sam Miranda 'Snow Road' Sparkling White NV $12 (King Valley)

Tasting Notes - Maison Leroy Auxey Duresses 2000

Region: Burgundy
Appellation: Auxey Duresses (Village AOC)

My early impression is that this pinot noir needs to be consumed over a couple of nights. Dull crimson in colour, unremarkable, but looks about right for the age. Nose is foreceful with sweet polish and oak, almost a chocolate-like sweetness. Palate is similar early with simple, ripe red fruit notes. Some nervy, buzzing acid kicks in mid-palate, lifting the wine nicely. Fruits transform in the back half to reveal a more mineral character, together with some iron and blood. A fraction hot on the finish. Absent the tingle in the mid-palate this is not miles away from the Leroy 1998 Bourgogne Rouge, although it is clear the structure shows much more class.

Tasting Notes - Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 1998

Tasted Febuary 2008 (Recommended)
When drunk over the first night I thought this wine was looking tired but the fruit really hit its straps 24 hours later. Lots of fresh berry and black currant across the nose and palate and surprisingly powerful given the age. Low oak impact and tannins are soft throughout but they get a touch powdery on the finish. Look to drink over 2008 - 2010.

Tasted October 2005 (Recommended)
Medium crimson red, lighter in colour than expected. Nose is very subtle with faint berry fruits. Much better in the mouth, ageing very nicely with classy pepper / capsicum / leaf (not under-ripe) and well backed with sweet black currents. An elegant wine in many respects but going well at 7yrs. Drink over 2005 - 2008.

Tasting Notes - Meadowbank 'Henry James' Pinot Noir 2002 (Recommended)

This was relatively expensive for Tassie pinot at $39 when originally released in 2004. Not sure why I choose to cellar this wine but I do recall that a number of critics (inc. Halliday) thought the robust structure would aid some aging.

Colour is relatively deep and dark for the variety, giving a medium strength blood red, more cabernet than pinot. Nose is somewhat seductive with liquored cherry and toasty oak, not unlike a Maison Leroy Bourgogne 1998 consumed recently. Shows no sign of the 6 years of age.

The palate is broadly similar, driven by toasty and tasty oak, and quite thick fruits. In many ways the wine doesn't standout (simple ripe red fruits and oak) but its hard to be critical given this region doesn't yet (in my opinion) have a robust track record for cellaring pinot noir beyond 5 years. So, not a bad effort, just not a great wine. Stepped up a gear the second night to reveal sour cherry (both nose and palate) and very good broad sour rubarb fruits. Transformed into something quite good.

Tasting Notes - Fighting Gully Road Tempranillo 2003 (Recommended)

This is a big, gutsy Tempranillo. Dark, inky black in colour. It has a nose that jumps out of the glass at you full of black cherry and blackcurrent fruit, spice, pencil shavings and violets. The palate is fairly weighty, relatively smooth with grippy, but not intrusive, tannins at the back. Plenty of black cherry fruit bursts onto the front palate with some smoky, woody notes. The oak influence is obvious but the fruit stands up to it. Apparently the vines are relatively old for Tempranillo in this country. I was impressed with the wine's structure and I think cellaring would be rewarded.

New Releases - February Pt.2

Cabernet & Blends
Hastwell & Lightfoot Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 $20 (McLarern Vale)
Ladbroke Grove Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 $29 (Coonawarra)
Ladbroke Grove 'Killians Vineyard' Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 $40 (Coonawarra)

Chardonnay
Langanook Chardonnay Viognier 2005 $19 (Bendigo)
Oakridge 2006 $29 (Yarra Valley)
Toolangi 2006 $23 (Yarra Valley)

Grenache
Tar and Roses 'Miro' 2004 $46 (Spain)

Moscato
Jeanneret 2007 $17 (Clare Valley)

Nebbiolo
Tar and Roses 2006 $41 (Heathcote)

Pinot Gris
Hoddles Creek 2007 $18 (Yarra Valley)

Pinot Noir
Brown Magpie 2004 $21 (Geelong)
Domaine Taupenot Merme Bourgogne Rouge 2005 $39 (Burgundy)
Domaine Taupenot Merme Passetoutgran 2005 $25 (Burgundy)
Holyman 2006 $43 (Tasmania)
Mayer Vineyard 'Close Planted' 2006 $47 (Yarra Valley)
Mayer Vineyard 'Bloody Hill' 2006 $27 (Yarra Valley)

Sangiovese
La Spinetta Il Nero 2005 $38 (Tuscany, Italy)

Sauvignon Blanc
Hoddles Creek 2007 $18 (Yarra Valley)
Saint Clair Pioneer Block 8 $30 (Marlborough)

Shiraz
Colonial Estate Explorateur Shiraz 2005 $33 (Barossa Valley)
Colonial Estate Mungo Park Shiraz 2005 $88 (Barossa Valley)
Ladbrok Grove 'Township Block' Shiraz 2004 $29 (Coonawarra)

New Releases - February

Cabernet & Blends
Digger's Bluff 'Watch Dog' Cabernet Shiraz 2001 $35 (Barossa Valley)
Elgo Estate 'Allira' Cabernet Merlot 2006 $13 (Strathbogie Ranges)
Ladbroke Grove 'Killian Vineyard' Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 $40 (Coonawarra)

Chardonnay
Greenstone Point Chardonnay 2007 $18 (Marlborough)
Henley Hill 2006 $15 (Yarra Valley)
Mount Mary 2006 $85 (Yarra Valley)
Tomboy Hill 'Harry's Picking' 2005 $43 (Ballarat)

Grenache & Blends
Digger's Bluff 'Stray Dog' GSM 2005 $18 (Barossa Valley)
Soul Growers GSm 2005 $25 (Barossa Valley)

Sauvignon Blanc
Mount Campbell 2006 $16 (Marlborough)

Shiraz
Faraday Ridge 2004 $29 (Bendigo)
Hently Farm 2006 $29 (Barossa Valley)
Jasper Hill Georgia's Paddock 2006 $69 (Heathcote)
Lazy Ballerina Shiraz 2006 $23 (McLaren Vale)
Lazy Ballerina Shiraz Viognier 2006 $18 (McLaren Vale)
Occam's Razor 2006 $37 (Heathcote)
Soul Growers 2005 $45 (Barossa Valley)
Soul Growers Shiraz Cabernet 2005 $25 (Barossa Valley)
Sould Growers Shiraz Cabernet 2003 $25 (Barossa Valley)

Sparkling White
No.1 Family Estate Cuvee NV $43 (Marlborough)

White Blends
Happs Preservative Free White 2007 $20 (Margaret River)
Mount Mary Triolet 2006 $85 (Yarra Valley)

Tasting Notes - Yarra Valley Showcase - Chardonnay 2005

Background
I was fortunate to attend the Wine Yarra Valley's 2007 showcase program in September 2007. Whilst mostly directed at the wine press (and most big guns were in attendance), a handful of retailers were also invited. The series of related posts over the next week or so will provide a brief overview and notes from each flight.

My over-riding observation from the two day program was that the wineries involved are very firm in a view that the Yarra Valley needs to be orientated towards producing 'serious wines', and by that I mean heavily European-accented styles. Whilst this may work at the top end, and noting SA realistically has a mortgage on the big fruited style, I'm not the Valley should shut the door on the new world styles that have served it well over time. Making a strong impression in the $15 - $25 is important and plays a crucial role in paying the rent. I think the YV can be a key player in the chard / pinot segment (in this price bracket) and I'd hate to see styles appropriate for this price range neglected.

This program was not open to all regional wineries, rather the 20-odd players that make up the Yarra Valley Wine Growers Association (http://www.yarravalleywine.com/). It is my understanding that a number of tasting sessions were held prior to the 2 day event to determine short lists for each bracket.

Chardonnay 2005
A good opener. Most showed ripe fruit profiles and obvious wine maker input. Clssy and elegant group but I think most lacked punch. All wines are still quite young, particularly the Coldstream Hills, and all may evolve nicely. Ultimately these wines are winemaker's 'wines' and may take time to connect with the punter.

Train Trak (Recommended)
Chalk one up for the little guys. Sourced from 8yr old vines, 30% malo, barrel fermented, high percentage of new oak. Light pale gold; youthful appearance. Ripe nose, flinty, gun powder and smoke, the latter aroma very striking and unique. Nose shows good depth. Elegant palate structure, smokey mineral note pops up again, some acid and heat on the finish. Quite classy.

Wedgetail Estate 2005
10yr old vines, 2tn / acre, 25% new oak. Medium gold hue; very clean and clear. Assertive fruits on the nose, worked malo, hints of burnt wood and rubber. Palate is more elegant and subdued than expected; no obvious 'chardy' fruits but clearly varietal. Oak is supportive. Fruit weight dips a bit on the finish.

Yering Station Reserve
11 months oak, 60% new, 1tn / acre. Very similar in appearance to the Wedgetail. Ripe, peachy nose, quite lifted, some oak, and quite powerful. More wood and ripe fruits to taste, although somewhat clumsy compared to the first 2 wines. For what it's worth Halliday loved it.

Debortoli
Clear medium gold in line with the Yering Station. Oak and rubber on the nose, some heat and good fruit lift. Serious structure is apparent. Flavours appear flat and uninteresting early but the palate picks up pace gradually. Fruit profile is too broad to get excited.

Savaterre
The ring-in. Very developed in all measures when compared to the bracket. Big nose of lifted apricots and brett pong. Not quite right but has some appeal. Mixed palate, no defining fruit character, and ultimately rendered ineffctive by a hot a spicy finish. Most likely oxidised.

Coldstream Reserve
Big chardonnay nose of lifted pineapple (simple?), malo, some toasty oak. Sharp structure, obvious acid, subdued peach fruits. Well rounded palate, very sound construction but not exciting. Firm oak on the finish. This is a very young wine.

Tasting Note - Roy Kidman Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (Recommended)

This is text book Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon as far as I am concerned. Whilst trying to assess the appearance ( a dense purple red) I was struck by the unmistakable menthol / eucalypt nose with a clean, minty, dark berry lift. The palate is smooth with pure black cherry and black current fruit, some well integrated charred cedar and an overal depth and elegance which is hard to fault. This wine no doubt comes with a price tag but I would certainly recommend it if it can retail for under $40.

Tasting Note - Faraday Ridge Shiraz 2004

Dark inky black/ red colour, the nose is full of promise with rich,very ripe berry fruit but the palate disappoints. There is plenty of fruit flavour to be found but the weight of the wine is a bit over bearing and I could taste the heat of the alcohol which led to a stalky, bitter finish. An ok wine but not a stand out.