I was fortunate to attend the Wine Yarra Valley's 2007 showcase program in September 2007. Whilst mostly directed at the wine press (and most big guns were in attendance), a handful of retailers were also invited. The series of related posts over the next week or so will provide a brief overview and notes from each flight.
My over-riding observation from the two day program was that the wineries involved are very firm in a view that the Yarra Valley needs to be orientated towards producing 'serious wines', and by that I mean heavily European-accented styles. Whilst this may work at the top end, and noting SA realistically has a mortgage on the big fruited style, I'm not the Valley should shut the door on the new world styles that have served it well over time. Making a strong impression in the $15 - $25 is important and plays a crucial role in paying the rent. I think the YV can be a key player in the chard / pinot segment (in this price bracket) and I'd hate to see styles appropriate for this price range neglected.
This program was not open to all regional wineries, rather the 20-odd players that make up the Yarra Valley Wine Growers Association (http://www.yarravalleywine.com/). It is my understanding that a number of tasting sessions were held prior to the 2 day event to determine short lists for each bracket.
Chardonnay 2005
A good opener. Most showed ripe fruit profiles and obvious wine maker input. Clssy and elegant group but I think most lacked punch. All wines are still quite young, particularly the Coldstream Hills, and all may evolve nicely. Ultimately these wines are winemaker's 'wines' and may take time to connect with the punter.
Train Trak (Recommended)
Chalk one up for the little guys. Sourced from 8yr old vines, 30% malo, barrel fermented, high percentage of new oak. Light pale gold; youthful appearance. Ripe nose, flinty, gun powder and smoke, the latter aroma very striking and unique. Nose shows good depth. Elegant palate structure, smokey mineral note pops up again, some acid and heat on the finish. Quite classy.
Wedgetail Estate 2005
10yr old vines, 2tn / acre, 25% new oak. Medium gold hue; very clean and clear. Assertive fruits on the nose, worked malo, hints of burnt wood and rubber. Palate is more elegant and subdued than expected; no obvious 'chardy' fruits but clearly varietal. Oak is supportive. Fruit weight dips a bit on the finish.
Yering Station Reserve
11 months oak, 60% new, 1tn / acre. Very similar in appearance to the Wedgetail. Ripe, peachy nose, quite lifted, some oak, and quite powerful. More wood and ripe fruits to taste, although somewhat clumsy compared to the first 2 wines. For what it's worth Halliday loved it.
Debortoli
Clear medium gold in line with the Yering Station. Oak and rubber on the nose, some heat and good fruit lift. Serious structure is apparent. Flavours appear flat and uninteresting early but the palate picks up pace gradually. Fruit profile is too broad to get excited.
Savaterre
The ring-in. Very developed in all measures when compared to the bracket. Big nose of lifted apricots and brett pong. Not quite right but has some appeal. Mixed palate, no defining fruit character, and ultimately rendered ineffctive by a hot a spicy finish. Most likely oxidised.
Coldstream Reserve
Big chardonnay nose of lifted pineapple (simple?), malo, some toasty oak. Sharp structure, obvious acid, subdued peach fruits. Well rounded palate, very sound construction but not exciting. Firm oak on the finish. This is a very young wine.
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