Friday 26 November 2004
Tasting Notes - Penfolds Bin 407 1996 (Recommended)
Lighish red with noticable fade at the rim. Aged / faded friut notes on nose with an elegant feel. Much better in the mouth and almost liquered berry notes underpinning the fruit. This is no heavy weight but mouthfeel is very appropriate. Some heat in the back palate and tannins are firmly in place. This wine is travelling pretty well and could go a few more years yet.
Wednesday 17 November 2004
Tasting Notes - Marius Shiraz 2002 (Recommended)
Impressive wine from a label low on our radar here at Cloudwine.
Deep crimson in the glass. Very deep nose, almost "warm' with an excellent fruit lift of sweet berries and a lick of licorice. More sweet berries on the palate and just a hint of McLaren Vale licorice and tar. Balanced and even restrained. Good length tops off a very complete mouthfeel. Depsite the obvious ripeness the wine never gets out of hand. Good stuff.
Deep crimson in the glass. Very deep nose, almost "warm' with an excellent fruit lift of sweet berries and a lick of licorice. More sweet berries on the palate and just a hint of McLaren Vale licorice and tar. Balanced and even restrained. Good length tops off a very complete mouthfeel. Depsite the obvious ripeness the wine never gets out of hand. Good stuff.
Monday 1 November 2004
Tasting Notes - Oliver / Mike Peterkin Chardonnay Master Class
Tasted last month at 'Sails on the Bay' as part of a trade gig. A very well run event with both Oliver and Peterkin excellent, knowledgable speakers. Interestingly room consensus was such that the younger vintage for each respctive wine seemed to win out in each 'head to head'.
Ultimately it was sheer class of the Giaconda that won out over the other wines but nevertheless each had something to contribute. The exception was the Bannockburn, with both vintages looking sadly out of class. Oliver did make the observation that 2 consecutive drought years in 2001 and 2003 may have taken their toll on the vines.
Mike Peterkin seems very much on top of his craft and the Pierro's showed well. Some of his key points raised included:
(1) 2002 in Margaret River was cool, paving the way for some attractive aromatic whites, whilst 2003 was a richer, riper year, no doubt better suiting the Pierro house style.
(2) Climatic and viticulture factors of key bearing on Pierro: low day/night variation helps for an even ripening, the nearby coast is crucial in moderating the climate and north/south facing rows appear to achieve the best results.
(3) Winemaking techniques include: wholebunch ferment, handpicking, use of the Gin Gin clone, use of French oak to enhance structure, MLF and lees contact to up the complexity levels.
Petaluma 2001 (1st bracket - 2nd ranked) (Recommended)
Pale gold, looks very youthful for a 3yr old. Subtle nose yet has a sense of underlying power, slightly sweet. Big mouthfeel with very ripe melons, tangy, a touch hot. There's some spicy oak in the background. Would have picked this as a wine from MR.
Petaluma 2000 (2nd bracket - 3rd)
Medium gold with a green tinge. Looks fairly young. Soft fruits on nose, quite balanced, very varietal. In the mouth a much more overt fruity wine than the 2001, and feels smack bang in the middle of the optimal drinking window. Back palate is a little tart, and whilst keeping the wine tight dues detract a little from the core of pure fruit. Again a little heat on the finish.
Petaluma Tiers 2001 (1st bracket - 4th) (Recommended)
Very similar in colour to the standard 2001. Much more oak on the nose, quite dominant and almost candy like. Classy nevertheless. Palate feel is all about structure, not obvious sweet fruit. More oak and nice burnt matchstick notes. Again very classy a wee bit tight right now. Needs another year but travelling ok.
Petaluma Tiers 2000 (2nd brack - 2nd) (Recommended)
Great lift of pristine fruit on the nose and very little oak is evident. Best nose of the tasting. Shows good balance in the mouth, nice feel. Primary fruit not as evident as in the 2001. A fraction weak in palate weight but otherwise very impressive. Great wine but a tough call at $100 given the quality of the $40 base model.
Bannockburn 2002 (1st bracket - 6th)
Again near identical hues to the 2001 Petalumas. Nose is quite lifted and a touch funky. Some fragrant spicy oak but essentially fruit driven. A little disjointed in the mouth, some upfront sweet fruit but does fall away noticably. Some heat, burns a little. Underlying oak is nice but this wine does not show the balance of the Petalumas.
Bannockburn 2001 (2nd bracket - 6th)
Identical appearance to the 2002. Good bouquet lift, again a little funky, but really quite nice. Once again angular in the mouth, fruit profile jumps all over the place. Raw oak intrudes as well and dries out the back palate. Right out of class in this tasting.
Pierro 2002 (1st bracket - 4th)
Pale gold / melon in the glass. Looks very youthful. Lifted fruity nose, powerful with some heat. Good 'length'. Some more overt oak in the mouth, nice and spicy, drives the powerful length. No doubt needs more time for the fruit to express itself better.
Pierro 2001 (2nd bracket - 4th)
Pale gold (at best) very very young hue. Similar nose to the 2002 but absolute fruit power and oak lift not quite as intense. Powerful palate but fruit profile is a little simple. Starts out with sweet friut but then jumps suddenly to a spicy oak finish. Good fun, and perhaps the most gluggable of the wines.
Leeuwin 2001 (1st bracket - 3rd) (Recommended)
Pale gold hue, youngest looking of the 2001's. Light, quite floral nose. Excellent lift and penetrating vapour. Best nose of the bracket. Much more powerful in the palate than the bouquet suggests. strong wine, long finish with some heat. Lots of stonefruit and melon, not the tropical fruit bowl the nose suggests. Very young.
Leeuwin 2000 (2nd bracket - 5th)
Looks brand new in the glass, no signs of development. A bit simple on the nose, slightly sweet fruit and oak. Nonetheless good feel and lift. Powerful fruity palate, more heat, plenty of upfront fruit but does fall flat in the middle, a rela let down particulaely given expectations.
Giaconda 2002 (1st bracket - 1st) (Recommended)
Looks a little developed for a 2yr old with more deeper gold hues. Very little obvious fruit on the nose, quite stern, firm and oaky. Euro feel. All encompassing palate, hits every point of the mouth. Excellent nutty notes - screams class. Oak is not obtrusive. Ultimately needs time as the wine, despite its obvious appeal, feels restrained and tight. Must have at least 4 years ahead of it.
Giaconda 2001 (2nd bracket - 1st) (Recommended)
Much younger looking than the 2002 - pale gold. Big nose lift, and seems much more fruit driven than the 2002. Very attractive and backed by some nice spicy wood. Awesome palate - seems forward with powerful sweet fruit - and classy oak drives the length. Can't see this one hanging around for years. Perhaps bets drunk 2004 - 2006.
Ultimately it was sheer class of the Giaconda that won out over the other wines but nevertheless each had something to contribute. The exception was the Bannockburn, with both vintages looking sadly out of class. Oliver did make the observation that 2 consecutive drought years in 2001 and 2003 may have taken their toll on the vines.
Mike Peterkin seems very much on top of his craft and the Pierro's showed well. Some of his key points raised included:
(1) 2002 in Margaret River was cool, paving the way for some attractive aromatic whites, whilst 2003 was a richer, riper year, no doubt better suiting the Pierro house style.
(2) Climatic and viticulture factors of key bearing on Pierro: low day/night variation helps for an even ripening, the nearby coast is crucial in moderating the climate and north/south facing rows appear to achieve the best results.
(3) Winemaking techniques include: wholebunch ferment, handpicking, use of the Gin Gin clone, use of French oak to enhance structure, MLF and lees contact to up the complexity levels.
Petaluma 2001 (1st bracket - 2nd ranked) (Recommended)
Pale gold, looks very youthful for a 3yr old. Subtle nose yet has a sense of underlying power, slightly sweet. Big mouthfeel with very ripe melons, tangy, a touch hot. There's some spicy oak in the background. Would have picked this as a wine from MR.
Petaluma 2000 (2nd bracket - 3rd)
Medium gold with a green tinge. Looks fairly young. Soft fruits on nose, quite balanced, very varietal. In the mouth a much more overt fruity wine than the 2001, and feels smack bang in the middle of the optimal drinking window. Back palate is a little tart, and whilst keeping the wine tight dues detract a little from the core of pure fruit. Again a little heat on the finish.
Petaluma Tiers 2001 (1st bracket - 4th) (Recommended)
Very similar in colour to the standard 2001. Much more oak on the nose, quite dominant and almost candy like. Classy nevertheless. Palate feel is all about structure, not obvious sweet fruit. More oak and nice burnt matchstick notes. Again very classy a wee bit tight right now. Needs another year but travelling ok.
Petaluma Tiers 2000 (2nd brack - 2nd) (Recommended)
Great lift of pristine fruit on the nose and very little oak is evident. Best nose of the tasting. Shows good balance in the mouth, nice feel. Primary fruit not as evident as in the 2001. A fraction weak in palate weight but otherwise very impressive. Great wine but a tough call at $100 given the quality of the $40 base model.
Bannockburn 2002 (1st bracket - 6th)
Again near identical hues to the 2001 Petalumas. Nose is quite lifted and a touch funky. Some fragrant spicy oak but essentially fruit driven. A little disjointed in the mouth, some upfront sweet fruit but does fall away noticably. Some heat, burns a little. Underlying oak is nice but this wine does not show the balance of the Petalumas.
Bannockburn 2001 (2nd bracket - 6th)
Identical appearance to the 2002. Good bouquet lift, again a little funky, but really quite nice. Once again angular in the mouth, fruit profile jumps all over the place. Raw oak intrudes as well and dries out the back palate. Right out of class in this tasting.
Pierro 2002 (1st bracket - 4th)
Pale gold / melon in the glass. Looks very youthful. Lifted fruity nose, powerful with some heat. Good 'length'. Some more overt oak in the mouth, nice and spicy, drives the powerful length. No doubt needs more time for the fruit to express itself better.
Pierro 2001 (2nd bracket - 4th)
Pale gold (at best) very very young hue. Similar nose to the 2002 but absolute fruit power and oak lift not quite as intense. Powerful palate but fruit profile is a little simple. Starts out with sweet friut but then jumps suddenly to a spicy oak finish. Good fun, and perhaps the most gluggable of the wines.
Leeuwin 2001 (1st bracket - 3rd) (Recommended)
Pale gold hue, youngest looking of the 2001's. Light, quite floral nose. Excellent lift and penetrating vapour. Best nose of the bracket. Much more powerful in the palate than the bouquet suggests. strong wine, long finish with some heat. Lots of stonefruit and melon, not the tropical fruit bowl the nose suggests. Very young.
Leeuwin 2000 (2nd bracket - 5th)
Looks brand new in the glass, no signs of development. A bit simple on the nose, slightly sweet fruit and oak. Nonetheless good feel and lift. Powerful fruity palate, more heat, plenty of upfront fruit but does fall flat in the middle, a rela let down particulaely given expectations.
Giaconda 2002 (1st bracket - 1st) (Recommended)
Looks a little developed for a 2yr old with more deeper gold hues. Very little obvious fruit on the nose, quite stern, firm and oaky. Euro feel. All encompassing palate, hits every point of the mouth. Excellent nutty notes - screams class. Oak is not obtrusive. Ultimately needs time as the wine, despite its obvious appeal, feels restrained and tight. Must have at least 4 years ahead of it.
Giaconda 2001 (2nd bracket - 1st) (Recommended)
Much younger looking than the 2002 - pale gold. Big nose lift, and seems much more fruit driven than the 2002. Very attractive and backed by some nice spicy wood. Awesome palate - seems forward with powerful sweet fruit - and classy oak drives the length. Can't see this one hanging around for years. Perhaps bets drunk 2004 - 2006.
Tasting Notes - Craiglee Shiraz 2002
Light red, almost like a shade of dirty blood crimson. Unique nose; herbal, peppery and almost has a green nettle note. Light mouthfeel yet does not lack intensity. Touches of spice, more pepper, but almost feels a little closed, or at the very least a wine that needs another 12 months. Just a bit one dimensional at this stage, but given the pedigree is sure to improve.
Tasting Notes - Wellington Current Releases
The new and not so new releases from Andrew Hood's personal labels were sampled recently. I thought the wines were a mixed bag although the chardonnays as expected were impressive. For those not in the know Roaring 40's is Hood's entry level label, sporting 2 wines in the rarely seen Tassie sub $20 bracket.
Wellington started in 1990 purely as a contract maker processing 16t for 6 vineyards. Growth since this time has been phenominal, and in 2004 knocked out 770t for 40 vineyards. Grapes are sourced from 6 vineyards - 2 each from Launceston, East Coast and Coal River.
Roaring 40's Pinot Noir 2003
Sweet candy nose; not dumb, and has character. Palate not impressive, no fruit carry and seems disjointed. Hard to recommend. Nowhere near as good as a sample 6 months ago - bad bottle?
Roaring 40's Chardonnay 2003 (Recommended)
Deliberately made in a light bodied style. Low oak and low tweaking - lots of fruit talking here. Classy drop. Hood claims 2003 was an excellent chardonnay vintage in Tassie and this wine adds weight to his opinion.
Wellington Chardonnay 2000 (Recommended)
No malo, high acid rentention winemaking style. Serious burnt nutty notes on the nose - very penetrating. Awesome palate,very long and oozes class. Not at all fruity - more nutty, woodsy - mineral notes are delicate. Very young at 4 years.
Wellington Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Green, cool vintage style. Very kiwi like - grassy, racy and a little sweaty pong. Drinks quite well but may need a little more obvious fruit.
Wellington Pinot Gris 2004
1000 cases produced. Sourced from Launceston fruit. Tight, Italian alps style. Some heat from ripe fruit dives good palate length. Despite this surprisingly delicate.
Wellington Riesling 2004
A bit ho hum...didn't jump out at me. Only 3 weeks in the bottle. Tough to pick as a riesling, seemed a little dry white (ie generic) and a bit shy right now.
Wellington Pinot Noir 2002
AH claims to be the best PN made under the Wellington label. Fruity nose, seems simple and fails to excite. Palate is tight, high acid, bold structure that is consistent with the 2001. Fruit definition is not strong, and for mine the wine just doesn't get going.
Wellington Iced Riesling 2003 (Recommended)
Impressive as ever. Powerful, concentrated wine that surprisingly is very shy on the nose. Seems very balanced and never cloys - acid balance is a trademark here.
Wellington started in 1990 purely as a contract maker processing 16t for 6 vineyards. Growth since this time has been phenominal, and in 2004 knocked out 770t for 40 vineyards. Grapes are sourced from 6 vineyards - 2 each from Launceston, East Coast and Coal River.
Roaring 40's Pinot Noir 2003
Sweet candy nose; not dumb, and has character. Palate not impressive, no fruit carry and seems disjointed. Hard to recommend. Nowhere near as good as a sample 6 months ago - bad bottle?
Roaring 40's Chardonnay 2003 (Recommended)
Deliberately made in a light bodied style. Low oak and low tweaking - lots of fruit talking here. Classy drop. Hood claims 2003 was an excellent chardonnay vintage in Tassie and this wine adds weight to his opinion.
Wellington Chardonnay 2000 (Recommended)
No malo, high acid rentention winemaking style. Serious burnt nutty notes on the nose - very penetrating. Awesome palate,very long and oozes class. Not at all fruity - more nutty, woodsy - mineral notes are delicate. Very young at 4 years.
Wellington Sauvignon Blanc 2004
Green, cool vintage style. Very kiwi like - grassy, racy and a little sweaty pong. Drinks quite well but may need a little more obvious fruit.
Wellington Pinot Gris 2004
1000 cases produced. Sourced from Launceston fruit. Tight, Italian alps style. Some heat from ripe fruit dives good palate length. Despite this surprisingly delicate.
Wellington Riesling 2004
A bit ho hum...didn't jump out at me. Only 3 weeks in the bottle. Tough to pick as a riesling, seemed a little dry white (ie generic) and a bit shy right now.
Wellington Pinot Noir 2002
AH claims to be the best PN made under the Wellington label. Fruity nose, seems simple and fails to excite. Palate is tight, high acid, bold structure that is consistent with the 2001. Fruit definition is not strong, and for mine the wine just doesn't get going.
Wellington Iced Riesling 2003 (Recommended)
Impressive as ever. Powerful, concentrated wine that surprisingly is very shy on the nose. Seems very balanced and never cloys - acid balance is a trademark here.
Tasting Notes - New Releases from Margrain
Newish label from Martinborough. We have generally pretty impressed with the wines thus far and will look to import directly in the next month or two.
Pinot Gris 2004 $23
Light gold in the glass. Nose seems rich, ripe and maybe a touch alcoholic. Palate confirms, although certainly not flabby or broad. Seems a fraction wound up right now - maybe a sliver of acid? - but has plenty of fruit power. Not terribly varietal, although the tell tale musk and oilyness does surface. Finishes a little hot, and the 14% alcohol just a little over the top. Honest, full bodied style.
'Mad Red' 2003 $21
Varietal makeup is not known but likely a cabernet blend. Attractive colour, medium red with purple hues. Light, frgrant nose with lifted floral and violet notes - perhaps a touch herbal. Light palate weight as well, carrying some acid that dulls the fruit at the moment. Certainly lively on the tongue, but just needs more fruit penetration. May well improve in the next 12 months.
Riesling 2002 $21
Typical off dry Kiwi style. Vibrant pale gold in the glass. Very varietal on the nose but certaintly smells older than a 2002 with more than a hint of kero coming thorough. Less aged on the palate with some acid providing zing. There residual sugar component can be id'd but not dominating. Seems to be transitioning to a more mature phase, but quite pleasant, albeit the wine is surely forward in its development. Reminds of an old fashioned 'dry white' with hints of sweetness.
Sauvignon Blanc 2004 $16 (Recommended)
The winery terms this drop as an 'off-dry' style but don't let this put you off. It's a ripe, pugnent, lifted, ever so slightly sweet style that's more Margaret River than a racy Marlborough...but then again these guys are from a warmer part of NZ so not a huge surprise. Fresh, rising nose with a good dose of tropical, slightly sweaty fruit. Friendly in the mouth, a little broad but has good length. Fruit sweetness fills the palate out. Not at all serious but a lot of punters will love the gluggability of this wine....and at the price will set the cat among the pigeons.
Botrytis Riesling 2004 (Recommended)
Great wine. Looks, smells and tastes like it's still in nappies. Fresh sharp nose, almost spicy. Clear, well focussed palate. Plenty of classic noble rot character but this is a relatively tighy, high acid style that might just need 6 months to settle. Acid drives length (and a little burn) but this wine travels the palate convincingly. Miles away from a typical inland Oz version that tends to cloy.Gewurztraminer 2004 $21Yet another example of gewurzt that blows Oz versions away. Ok, so it's a bit on the sweeter side but you get a truckload of musky, spicy fruit with a fair whack of power that drives the palate weight and length. Has just enough acid to keep it from falling apart at the seams. Won't get a lot beter but can be drunk into 2005.
Pinot Gris 2004 $23
Light gold in the glass. Nose seems rich, ripe and maybe a touch alcoholic. Palate confirms, although certainly not flabby or broad. Seems a fraction wound up right now - maybe a sliver of acid? - but has plenty of fruit power. Not terribly varietal, although the tell tale musk and oilyness does surface. Finishes a little hot, and the 14% alcohol just a little over the top. Honest, full bodied style.
'Mad Red' 2003 $21
Varietal makeup is not known but likely a cabernet blend. Attractive colour, medium red with purple hues. Light, frgrant nose with lifted floral and violet notes - perhaps a touch herbal. Light palate weight as well, carrying some acid that dulls the fruit at the moment. Certainly lively on the tongue, but just needs more fruit penetration. May well improve in the next 12 months.
Riesling 2002 $21
Typical off dry Kiwi style. Vibrant pale gold in the glass. Very varietal on the nose but certaintly smells older than a 2002 with more than a hint of kero coming thorough. Less aged on the palate with some acid providing zing. There residual sugar component can be id'd but not dominating. Seems to be transitioning to a more mature phase, but quite pleasant, albeit the wine is surely forward in its development. Reminds of an old fashioned 'dry white' with hints of sweetness.
Sauvignon Blanc 2004 $16 (Recommended)
The winery terms this drop as an 'off-dry' style but don't let this put you off. It's a ripe, pugnent, lifted, ever so slightly sweet style that's more Margaret River than a racy Marlborough...but then again these guys are from a warmer part of NZ so not a huge surprise. Fresh, rising nose with a good dose of tropical, slightly sweaty fruit. Friendly in the mouth, a little broad but has good length. Fruit sweetness fills the palate out. Not at all serious but a lot of punters will love the gluggability of this wine....and at the price will set the cat among the pigeons.
Botrytis Riesling 2004 (Recommended)
Great wine. Looks, smells and tastes like it's still in nappies. Fresh sharp nose, almost spicy. Clear, well focussed palate. Plenty of classic noble rot character but this is a relatively tighy, high acid style that might just need 6 months to settle. Acid drives length (and a little burn) but this wine travels the palate convincingly. Miles away from a typical inland Oz version that tends to cloy.Gewurztraminer 2004 $21Yet another example of gewurzt that blows Oz versions away. Ok, so it's a bit on the sweeter side but you get a truckload of musky, spicy fruit with a fair whack of power that drives the palate weight and length. Has just enough acid to keep it from falling apart at the seams. Won't get a lot beter but can be drunk into 2005.
Tasting Notes - Viking Shiraz Cabernet 2003 (Recommended)
Viking's 'cheaper' wine, a mere $42.
Very dark red in the glass, almost black. A mixed nose - some sweet, simple fruit wafts up initially but is well matched with penetrating ripe fruit. Quite similar in the palate, at first easy to be fooled with the uncomplicated sweet fruits but some serious structure soon takes hold. Good, firm tannins drive length, dominating only a fraction (at this stage) and seemingly keep the ripeness in check. Wood treatment hides in the background. Looks like a very good wine making here.
Very dark red in the glass, almost black. A mixed nose - some sweet, simple fruit wafts up initially but is well matched with penetrating ripe fruit. Quite similar in the palate, at first easy to be fooled with the uncomplicated sweet fruits but some serious structure soon takes hold. Good, firm tannins drive length, dominating only a fraction (at this stage) and seemingly keep the ripeness in check. Wood treatment hides in the background. Looks like a very good wine making here.
Tasting Notes - Koltz GSM 2002
Rich, ripe, penetrating nose with fruit cake notes. Some heat evident. Powerful, sweet palate. None of the 3 varieties really dominate. Good length with some heat and tannin. Wood not really noticable. Some bitterness at the finish. Seems very young and just a little too sweet for me right now. Not as good as a bottle tasted 2 months ago.
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