Monday 1 November 2004

Tasting Notes - New Releases from Margrain

Newish label from Martinborough. We have generally pretty impressed with the wines thus far and will look to import directly in the next month or two.

Pinot Gris 2004 $23
Light gold in the glass. Nose seems rich, ripe and maybe a touch alcoholic. Palate confirms, although certainly not flabby or broad. Seems a fraction wound up right now - maybe a sliver of acid? - but has plenty of fruit power. Not terribly varietal, although the tell tale musk and oilyness does surface. Finishes a little hot, and the 14% alcohol just a little over the top. Honest, full bodied style.

'Mad Red' 2003 $21
Varietal makeup is not known but likely a cabernet blend. Attractive colour, medium red with purple hues. Light, frgrant nose with lifted floral and violet notes - perhaps a touch herbal. Light palate weight as well, carrying some acid that dulls the fruit at the moment. Certainly lively on the tongue, but just needs more fruit penetration. May well improve in the next 12 months.

Riesling 2002 $21
Typical off dry Kiwi style. Vibrant pale gold in the glass. Very varietal on the nose but certaintly smells older than a 2002 with more than a hint of kero coming thorough. Less aged on the palate with some acid providing zing. There residual sugar component can be id'd but not dominating. Seems to be transitioning to a more mature phase, but quite pleasant, albeit the wine is surely forward in its development. Reminds of an old fashioned 'dry white' with hints of sweetness.

Sauvignon Blanc 2004 $16 (Recommended)
The winery terms this drop as an 'off-dry' style but don't let this put you off. It's a ripe, pugnent, lifted, ever so slightly sweet style that's more Margaret River than a racy Marlborough...but then again these guys are from a warmer part of NZ so not a huge surprise. Fresh, rising nose with a good dose of tropical, slightly sweaty fruit. Friendly in the mouth, a little broad but has good length. Fruit sweetness fills the palate out. Not at all serious but a lot of punters will love the gluggability of this wine....and at the price will set the cat among the pigeons.

Botrytis Riesling 2004 (Recommended)
Great wine. Looks, smells and tastes like it's still in nappies. Fresh sharp nose, almost spicy. Clear, well focussed palate. Plenty of classic noble rot character but this is a relatively tighy, high acid style that might just need 6 months to settle. Acid drives length (and a little burn) but this wine travels the palate convincingly. Miles away from a typical inland Oz version that tends to cloy.Gewurztraminer 2004 $21Yet another example of gewurzt that blows Oz versions away. Ok, so it's a bit on the sweeter side but you get a truckload of musky, spicy fruit with a fair whack of power that drives the palate weight and length. Has just enough acid to keep it from falling apart at the seams. Won't get a lot beter but can be drunk into 2005.

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